Power of the K-60
Total time on the job, from setting up to cleaning and putting away the snake was 50 minutes. We always say the K-60 is a great machine but can't handle heavy roots. I'm not saying it can do everything but the pictures show roots are no problem. I will say if I knew how big the roots were, I would have brought out the Spartan.
the ridgid ones don't have a "innercable". so far so good. i use both the 5/8'' and 7/8'' ridgid cables with excellant results.
my 1.25'' sectional is a general that has a 1/2'' cable innercore. this is a monster of a cable in 10' sections.
general also makes cable with ridgid ends if you really want an innercore sectional cable.
like i said, the ridgid sectional cables have performed great.;)
rick.
you're east coast, i thought all you guys use sectionals there?
OK here's to help out all you outthere;
Though Ridgid, Spartan, etc. all make some type of splice coupling :(
But i prefer the Gorliz style of couplers, see note at bottom,
You can cut a bad "kink"!!! out of your cable, this can be a kittle time consuming so it's proable easer to do at your shop or house,
:D
First you need a good set of bolt cutters, i use " Ridgid" for this,
next you need a couple of Visegrips to hold and work the cables,
First if you have broken cable you need to cut off the 2 bad endsm,
if you have a bad kink cut out a few inches on both sides of the kinked area,:(
If you have inner core cable you take your visegrips and use one pair to hold cable a few inches back then take 2 pair and pull
innercore out a few inches and cut off if this is good cable the ends should be anchored to the welded ends, this is a good place to mention if on the job have locktite handy to put on cable splice start one end into one end of cable a couple of turns
"" Do not try to screw all the way in at this time""
Once you have a good start bring your other cable over and start on splice end take both visegrips one on each cable a few inches back :D
You have to lock down very hard on cable if you are over the part that the splice go's into the cable will lock down and prevent you from screwing togeather which is the next part,
"screwing the ends together"
Till they meet in the middle if you over tighten you will cause cable end to push up and this will hang up in your powerfeed!! not good, :(
if you are at the shop and have some type of electric welder, you can spot weld a small bead and then ground it down so it don't hang up on your powerfeed!! :)
The reason i don't like ridgid, or spartan splices because of the nut peace in the center you don't get as much of a screw thread as the Gorlitz style, plus you have to grind down the ridge around the cable right away to keep from hanging up in power feed,:(
You can run cable on job without welding first just be aware not to torqe down the cable in reverse because it could back out!!!
This is the reason for locktite or better yet welding the splice point
but i have cleared many blockadges with just the cable screwed together,
You don't want to do both locktite is good in the field, but you are much better off to spot welding the joint:)
Roto Rooter first showed me this back in 1975 and i have used it many
many times in the years since:D
JERRYMAC MASTERPLUMBER MASTER DRAINMAN:)
I have looking at buying a k 60 but I have been holding off but by the discussions and photos I might have to invest in one.
What is the furthest you guys have had one down a 4 inch sewer line?
As most of the cleans I have been been doing lateley are approx 60-90feet.
Are they flexible enough to go around PVC trap?
Regards
Greg
so far so good with the cables. with that instant acting clutch handle, kinking is very hard to do.
i rarely run the rear guide hose and therefore do a lot of extra rubbing on the ground. but so far i've only broke i cable and that was amazing that i even did the job. i was able to fix the cable since there is a 6'' section of tight wind on the ends.
believe it or not, i actually cleared a stoppage with my 7/8'' cable on a roof drain that was backed up. nothing out of the ordinary till it cleared and i saw that the drain was only 2'' and it had a p-trap 1' below:eek:
amazing i got through it. and ran 35+ feet to clear it. getting it back out of the trap was the fun. that's how i snapped it. still got it out. the coupling on each side of the cable was too tight to make it back out of a 2'' trap.
can't blame the cable on this;)
read some of the old post, and ben/ gear junkie is a believer now.
rick.
We can all play toghether and it is all in good fun.
Greg
Sure the k-60 will have a harder time than a larger machine but if the roots are that bad they need new pipe replacement. So even though the k-60 may not clean out the pipe as good as a larger machine. It will buy the customer some time. To save up for new pipe replacement. I seldom use my 1500 machine anymore.:)
dura cable is the retail line of Roto Rooter Company!!
JERRYMAC MASTER PLUMBER & MASTER DRAINMAN
I have looking at buying a k 60 but I have been holding off but by the discussions and photos I might have to invest in one.
What is the furthest you guys have had one down a 4 inch sewer line?
As most of the cleans I have been been doing lateley are approx 60-90feet.
Are they flexible enough to go around PVC trap?
Regards
Greg
Greg, just get it, it's worth every penny. Other than my truck; that's the best purchase I ever made. I would be at a loss if I had to improve upon it.
your research is up there with bob and bhd:)
now study your real estate books, you only need 1% more:D
rick.
I'm glad i can help you Rick,
When people get older youngsters are the one that take care of them,so i figured i can help you,:D
As far as my real estate exam,i called them and requested that my exam should be re-reviewed since the computer is the one that gave me the final score..Nothing to loose..In the meantime since that takes 4 weeks ..I'm studying for my 3rd try...
Oh,I'm sorry ..Am i taking your place on the forum? It' s ok Rick,I promise i won't stay for more than you do
But i will get it..don't worry about me Rick:D
You should worry about not knowing the voltage...i thought you know everything..guess i was wrong:D
Good Posts Out There Westcoast, Rick I Respect Your Technial Expertise, But I Don't Know What The Big Deal Is About Sectionals??
Jerrymac Masterplumber Master Drainman
Don't knock it till you try it.;)
ZELJKA IS A KEEPER
the plumber the day before couldn't clear the line with his spartan. he recommended me to the owners to clear it.
funny i did it in less than an hour and he had 2 guys to carry his machine up the stairs.
the owners were thrilled as they were just going to rent the house after renovating it for the last 2 years.
rick.
http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/images/misc/progress.gif
Refering t your and ben post..
See ben...we post a pic..and rick cannot wait to compete...something is seriously wrong with him:D:D:D
Next rob will post a who has a cutest dog and rick will probably google it and post here the worlds cutest dog instead of his own:):)
he just has to compete..poor children of his one day:D:D
mrs. wc
the plumber the day before couldn't clear the line with his spartan. he recommended me to the owners to clear it.
funny i did it in less than an hour and he had 2 guys to carry his machine up the stairs.
the owners were thrilled as they were just going to rent the house after renovating it for the last 2 years.
rick.
http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/images/misc/progress.gif
I have cut and spliced 3/8", 1/2",.5/8",11/16",3/4", inner core and no core cables many times,
if you ask i can tell you how to do it even on the job in order to complete work
Jerrymac Master Drainman
You know, this brings up a good point, I for somer eason have never thought about cutting / splicing cables before, never had to on the job, I have come close, but have never broken one, except for a 1/4 " top snake cable in a drain, other then that, interesting topic, maybe you can post the info, especially for the full time drain cleaning guy's
the next one was a main line that had no ground level cleanout so i used the 3'' roof vent to cut out roots and baby wipes. doesn't look steep from the photo angle, but i had to brace myself and tie off my machine from sliding:eek:
this one was 45 minutes show up to packed up.
It's in the final pages.
yes i used a 5/8" cable you just have to be real careful how you run it, #2 thanks for the tip about bold,
#3 i know i cleared all roots from line because i was running a 6" cutter blade back and forth 3 or 4 times, to conferm line was cleared and because i give a guarantee on my work so i had to make sure line was completely open,:):)
#4 i have moved so much the last few years that i no longer have any
pictures any more, of course i did'nt take that many pictures at the time but i have had to clean those roots off my cable, sometimes up to 5-6 feet back from blades,:(:(
JERRYMAC MASTERPLUMBER CA. LIC. 555533 C36/16:)
Mark
about time you jumped in.
what, late night with the boys:D
i can thank mark for the sectional heads up. 100th' time:eek:
rick.
yeah, I just don't do it:eek: I don't weld either, and I don't trust a splice.
Maybe something to try in the future, or I will just add a cable fee to my invoices to cover the additional cost:D:D
THERE YOU GO RICK,HOPE YOU GOT IT:)
zeljka, glad you can copy and paste:D
your research is up there with bob and bhd:)
now study your real estate books, you only need 1% more:D
rick.
General also makes a 7/8" IC cable. When I bought my K60Sp from THe Cable Center In St. Louis, they sold me General sectional cables for the Ridgid. I've had them for five years with no complaints. I've got 75' of cable with inner core and 75' without innercore. They sent me the innercore by mistake, but told me to keep it instead of sending it back. It is alot stiffer. Because of the weight,I only use innercore cable when I have to.
Like I told you the only reason I`m getting a K-60 is for basements clean outs
I too have pulled out many root balls like Ricks, I just have no pictures:mad:
I think Rick got lucky and latched on to the root ball in the right spot and pulled most of it back, he got ahold of the cluster that was growing downstream, hense the long strings. We have dug many 6 x 4 transitions and have been able to grab the cluster that grows in the mudded cap, and with it, out came another 6' of roots growing downstream.
The great thing about the k-60 is the portability and the safety when working on the roof. The other thing, when I saw my cable shoot out yesterday I saw doller signs:eek: I have been told by the guy's that use the k-60, and I would have to agree, with sectional you can replace sections of cable, not like my sparten cable (in a duracable machine) I have to replace min 50' at a time.
Also when in my 30rtes i could break down a 300 mach. carry on roof
anywhere in so. ca. setup and run mainline pack up write ticket,
and be on my way in 1 hour or less, when i was running a G68hd or S-1065 i ran by myself though the roof vent, i did'nt like pulling tiolets
because many times they were back to back or i knew that i would flood the bathroom with raw sewage, and water,
Also the offsets going though closet bends and waste lines put extra strain on the cable, and blades to make those bends not to mention when pulling back out, i know this because on some occasions
i did do main lines that way, but only as a last resort, :(:(
and whenever i could talk homeowner into it i dig and install a ground clean-out to grade,:D:D:D as this was best anwser for everbody cause i knew i would be back in 6 mos. to 1 year to snake over again.
if i could i would sell on a complete sewer replacement as way to permant solve their root problems:):)
Jerrymac Masterplumber:):)
rick.
I heard you stole p-cracks propress on ebay?? Now why would you want to do htat rick? I think you should buy real toys and give it to charity..that can occupy you instead of being sick like that and steal someone first propress:D:D
mrs wc
Sure the k-60 will have a harder time than a larger machine but if the roots are that bad they need new pipe replacement. So even though the k-60 may not clean out the pipe as good as a larger machine. It will buy the customer some time. To save up for new pipe replacement. I seldom use my 1500 machine anymore.:)
Right on, Brutha! ;)
http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data/500/15497P1030728-med.JPG
I have cut and spliced 3/8", 1/2",.5/8",11/16",3/4", inner core and no core cables many times,
if you ask i can tell you how to do it even on the job in order to complete work
Jerrymac Master Drainman
mrs wc
rumors, all rumors.
it was a buy it now. so i didn't steal it. i commited to buy it:rolleyes:
rick.
actually if you do some searching of old post on the k-60. i think i've wrote a novel:D
all we need now is plumbercrack to turn it into a movie:eek:
since you know sectionals, you'll love this little package of a machine. get it before they ban it for using steroids:D
rick.
that is my cutter of choice. sometimes you have to clear the cutter and continue in. i also like the way the sectional grabs the roots in the coils.
rick.
p.s ben good photos.
But The Main Point Is I Have Cleared Many Root Blo0ckadges The Same As Your Pictures, Or Worst I Used To Clean 6" & 8" Sewers With Spartan 300 Mach. With (2) Two 5/8" X 75' Run Together For A Total Of 150' Plus Including Leader & Anchor Cables,:)
Jerrymac Masterplumber Master Drainman
Did you clean it or just knock a hole in the stoppage. How did you know the diiference? I by no means have as many years as you do but doesn't a 5/8 cable seem small for 6-8"? I think that's stretching it for 4" root stoppages. I won't run my 5/8" cable in anything bigger than 2".
the plumber the day before couldn't clear the line with his spartan. he recommended me to the owners to clear it.
funny i did it in less than an hour and he had 2 guys to carry his machine up the stairs.
the owners were thrilled as they were just going to rent the house after renovating it for the last 2 years.
rick.
http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/images/misc/progress.gif
Alright Robert, it looks like Rick beat you out for biggest root ball. Rick, those roots are insane.
When people get older youngsters are the one that take care of them,so i figured i can help you,:D
As far as my real estate exam,i called them and requested that my exam should be re-reviewed since the computer is the one that gave me the final score..Nothing to loose..In the meantime since that takes 4 weeks ..I'm studying for my 3rd try...
Oh,I'm sorry ..Am i taking your place on the forum? It' s ok Rick,I promise i won't stay for more than you do
But i will get it..don't worry about me Rick:D
You should worry about not knowing the voltage...i thought you know everything..guess i was wrong:D
LOL, she got you good Rick; brains and a sense of humor. Robert, she's a keeper.
the plumber the day before couldn't clear the line with his spartan.
AMATEURS :O
I have looking at buying a k 60 but I have been holding off but by the discussions and photos I might have to invest in one.
What is the furthest you guys have had one down a 4 inch sewer line?
As most of the cleans I have been been doing lateley are approx 60-90feet.
Are they flexible enough to go around PVC trap?
Regards
Greg
greg, i carry 150' with me in the truck. that's 2- 75' cages. i have used it on more than 1 occasion.
as far as a trap goes. depends what size traps. i once was cleaning a roof drain that turns out it was a 2'' line with a 2'' p-trap. i was using the 7/8'' cable with straight auger. got through it and cleared it. that's when i realized it was a 2'' line and trap:eek:
the k-60 runs both the 5/8'' cable and 7/8'' cable. the 5/8'' will run 1.5''-3'' and the 7/8'' is good for 2''-4''. traps 3-4'':D
if you need a demo, send me a ticket:D i'll bring you one. are you guys 120 or 240 volts?
rick.
as far as a trap goes. depends what size traps. i once was cleaning a roof drain that turns out it was a 2'' line with a 2'' p-trap. i was using the 7/8'' cable with straight auger. got through it and cleared it. that's when i realized it was a 2'' line and trap:eek:
the k-60 runs both the 5/8'' cable and 7/8'' cable. the 5/8'' will run 1.5''-3'' and the 7/8'' is good for 2''-4''. traps 3-4'':D
if you need a demo, send me a ticket:D i'll bring you one. are you guys 120 or 240 volts?
rick.
Electrical requirements and safety
The following information is provided to assist you in the safe operation of telecommunications and radiocommunications equipment whilst visiting Australia. This information is provided for assistance only and is not necessarily applicable in all situations. In all circumstances where any doubt exists regarding the safe and proper way to operate electrically based equipment you should seek additional advice before attempting to operate the equipment. Please see the end of this section for additional sources of information on electrical requirements and safety. (Source: Testing & Certification Australia - a business of EnergyAustralia)
Voltage
Nominal mains voltage is 240 volts. This can be expected to vary between 216 and 254 volts depending on time and load conditions in the distribution system
Frequency
Frequency is 50 Hertz http://www.acma.gov.au/webwr/consumer_info/visitors_to_australia/pic_powerplug.gif
Power System
Australia uses a four wire, three phase, 240/415 volt, multiple earthed neutral (MEN) distribution system. There is no inherent overvoltage level protection and additional protection in equipment may be required. However, three phase 415 volt system is generally considered to be Category III level whilst single phase, 240 volt general purpose outlets are considered to be Category II; (see International Electrotechnical Commission standard, IEC 60664 for definitions)
Connection to Mains
Single phase plug for connection to General Purpose outlet is by three pin, flat pin with active, neutral and earth. Active and neutral connections are standardised. Maximum current capacity is 10 Amps. Special plug and socket combinations are available for 15 and 20 Amp requirements but must be used with appropriately rated sub-circuits.
Small three phase loads can be connected to 32 Amp general purpose connectors distributed through facilities. Special outdoor distribution points will be available at the venues for connection of loads of up to 200 Amps per phase by flexible cables. Loads larger than these will need to be advised to Energy Australia for planning and connection to available substations.
Safety Requirements
Class 0 and 01 Insulated equipment is not permitted in Australia. All mains connected equipment must provide protection from electric shock by means of one layer of insulation plus an earthed metal screen or by double insulation. All Australian power outlets have earth conductors.
State legislation requires that all electrical equipment be safe. Australia uses a range of National standards for evaluation of safety, many are based on IEC international standards.
Standard DescriptionEquivalentCommentAS 3000
Electrical Wiring Rules
none
Rules covering installation of electrical equipment in Australia
AS/NZS 3100
General Requirements for electrical equipment
none
Applied to any electrical equipment where specific product standard does not exist
AS/NZS 3500.1
Safety of Household and similar electrical appliances
IEC60335.1
EN60335.1
Domestic and commercial appliances - also applied to general equipment
AS/NZS3260
Safety of Information Technology and Business equipment
IEC60950
EN60950
Some national requirements for flammability and impulse levels for telecommunications equipment
AS/NZS3250
Mains operated electronic and related equipment
IEC60065
EN600065
TV and audio visual equipment - additional flammability requirements for Australia
AS/NZS3108
Isolating Transformers
IEC60742
EN60742
AS/NZS3112
Plugs and Sockets
Standard for three pin plugs and sockets mandated in Australia
AS/NZS3191
Flexible Power Supply Cords
Cords bearing the European mark are also accepted
AS/NZS3200.1
Electromedical Equipment
IEC60601.1
EN60601.1
Equipment for permanent installation in Australia
Mains connected electrical equipment which is intended for sale or rent, is subject to the uniform electrical safety regulations. Explanatory notes applicable to New South Wales are attached. The purchaser should ascertain that the appropriate approvals have been obtained before purchase. There is a general overarching requirement that all products on sale be safe but only a limited number of "Declared" articles require mandatory testing and approval. It is the responsibility of the supplier to ensure safety. Compliance to published standards is one method accepted for demonstrating safety.
If equipment is being imported but not for sale, then these requirements are not applicable. However, Occupational Heath and Safety laws require that employers provide safe working environments. In the Games situation, SOCOG is the workplace owner and will be liable for any safety offences or incidents at the venues. In order to minimise the risk presented by electrical products, all equipment should comply with relevant standards.
Equipment for Games use only
For personal appliances and equipment (hair dyers, CD players, PC's etc.) where no interconnection to telecommunications systems at the venue are intended, normal tourist conditions apply and there are no special requirements.
Where equipment is to be used in public areas and may be contacted by other persons or will be connected to systems at the venue, SOCOG safety requirements will have to be met.. The responsibility for checking and approving safety of electrical equipment has been given to Testing & Certification Australia (TCA) a division of Energy Australia. In general compliance to standards equivalent to Australian requirements will be accepted. Compliance will be checked through documentation where possible and it is expected that existing certifications will be satisfactory where these can be recognised and equivalence of safety established. Where such equivalence cannot be shown, TCA may require, inspection, partial or full testing of a sample. This may be able to be arranged in country of origin.
THERE YOU GO RICK,HOPE YOU GOT IT:)
greg, the 3'' vertical stack/ vent was exactly 15' to the horizontal. i know because the sections are 15' and thats where the "freefall" stopped with the cable.
with any sectional the open wind helps to thread the cable into the line upon it's rotation. pulling it back out i still keep it spinning forward to keep it cutting. there was a slight resistance with the 15' drop. but with it spinning, it moves fairly easy. the whole trick with this machine and handle/ clutch assy. is timing between depressing the handle to engage the cable and feeding and retrieving. doesn't take long to get the timing down.
try it, you'll like it:D
rick.
I've used the Ridgid sectional machines for over 30-years. It seems the cables are more serviceable than our drum machines but of course that really depends on what you get in to. One big advantage of a sectional machine is when you do get a bad kink you replace a short section rather than an entire cable. My 1 1/4 Ridgid cables are 15' long and are not inner-core.
Mark
actually if you do some searching of old post on the k-60. i think i've wrote a novel:D
all we need now is plumbercrack to turn it into a movie:eek:
since you know sectionals, you'll love this little package of a machine. get it before they ban it for using steroids:D
rick.
LOL, i think i will....im actually excited over this...i know its the simple things that excite me..anyway...ya im going to check it out..Are those cables easy to kink??? and how often would you say you need to replace sections???
Anyways, ran my camera, located the break in the street;) recommended another company to dig up the street and lay the new lateral. Upper lateral (sewer) needs to be replaced, I told them to fix the lateral first, it's the most important, I'll wait;):D
my 1.25'' sectional is a general that has a 1/2'' cable innercore. this is a monster of a cable in 10' sections.
general also makes cable with ridgid ends if you really want an innercore sectional cable.
like i said, the ridgid sectional cables have performed great.;)
rick.
you're east coast, i thought all you guys use sectionals there?
LOL, no, i use to use a dual eel all the time on everything....it was great, but carrying around those tires of cables got old...those sections were innercore cables, 8ft long..we would use them on 4in up to 12in pipe...I started using spartan machines after i switched companies...and i like those better...I did use the sectionals longer...but the stories on the ridgid sectionals sounds good...im not one for going on roofs...i will usually pull a toilet...but with those pics you put up, it doesnt look bad at all...there is noway you would be able to run the dual eel from a roof, unless it was flat...
your research is up there with bob and bhd:)
now study your real estate books, you only need 1% more:D
rick.
Copy and paste?
Zeljka is a pretty bright girl, I would not be surprised to learn she posted that off the top of her head.
Mark
Hi Out There Everbody, 1st. Thing I Type In Caps Because Of Bad Eyes, And It's Easyer To See What I Am Typing..
Good Posts Out There Westcoast, Rick I Respect Your Technial Expertise, But I Don't Know What The Big Deal Is About Sectionals?? I Have Not Ever Used One, But I Have Used Many Differant Types & Models Of Drum Mach's Ie Spartan, Gorlitz, Marco, Roto Rooter, Rigid 750, & 7500 For 3 Years And More I Can't
Remember Right Now Including When I First Started A 3/4" X 75' Flat Tape That Was A Lot Of Fun In The Day!!!
But The Main Point Is I Have Cleared Many Root Blo0ckadges The Same As Your Pictures, Or Worst I Used To Clean 6" & 8" Sewers With Spartan 300 Mach. With (2) Two 5/8" X 75' Run Together For A Total Of 150' Plus Including Leader & Anchor Cables,:)
Jerrymac Masterplumber Master Drainman
Zeljka is a pretty bright girl, I would not be surprised to learn she posted that off the top of her head.
Mark
Thanks Mark,
I'm glad to hear someone thinks i have brains and not the computer skills;)
And since we all know Robert needs a keeper that is a good thing.
Mark :D
thanks Rick.
Hi Out There Everbody, 1st. Thing I Type In Caps Because Of Bad Eyes, And It's Easyer To See What I Am Typing..
i used to type all caps too. then 1 day they got on my case for "yelling" i didn't know the computer would take words and put them into audible sentences:confused: so now i type all lower case. duck uses all bold and i guess nobody questions that:confused:
Good Posts Out There Westcoast, Rick I Respect Your Technial Expertise, But I Don't Know What The Big Deal Is About Sectionals?? I Have Not Ever Used One, But I Have Used Many Differant Types & Models Of Drum Mach's Ie Spartan, Gorlitz, Marco, Roto Rooter, Rigid 750, & 7500 For 3 Years And More I Can't
Remember Right Now Including When I First Started A 3/4" X 75' Flat Tape That Was A Lot Of Fun In The Day!!!
But The Main Point Is I Have Cleared Many Root Blo0ckadges The Same As Your Pictures, Or Worst I Used To Clean 6" & 8" Sewers With Spartan 300 Mach. With (2) Two 5/8" X 75' Run Together For A Total Of 150' Plus Including Leader & Anchor Cables,:)
the 300 spartan is a 5/8'' machine and i would never use it on roots in a 6''or 8'' line. i would use my jetter or my 1.25'' sectional with 6'' or 8'' expanding cutters.
post some photos for us to see. always nice to see others work.;)
Jerrymac Masterplumber Master Drainman
jerry i too own more machines than a 20 man shop:eek: the point i'm making is that the sectional machine is not a popular machine out here on the west coast. my supply house barley have anything for it. all special order.
what i'm doing is try to show how i can clean a line from a roof top or hard access area with a machine that is not well known out here. i'm always amazed at the companies that turn a 1 hour call into a 2 man 2 hour call and do a half as* job. just punching a hole in the stoppage to clear it. not clean it. i do alot of camera work for a lot of other plumbers and it amazes me to see what it looks like just after they have cleared it:eek:
i even got a private message 2 days ago from a fellow member thanking me for posting and recommending the k-60 to him. even offered him my money back guarantee if he didn't like it. well he used it 3 times the other day and needless to say, i won't be buying it from him. he is actually going to send me a t-shirt for the advise:D
since i work all by myself, you need to figure out how to make the job easier. the k-60 so far has been making the job easier ever since mark recommended it to me:)
now if you want to see me do a trenchless pipe bursting job by myself, i'll have to ask my wife to stay home:eek: she is the one who operates the "joystick":D
not trying to sell you a machine, since i don't sell my stuff. but i will give you my money back guarantee on it, if you buy it and it doesn't do the job for you. i already have 3 of them and have not bought 1 from another member. i don't think i will end up with my 4th.
if it wasn't for others like mark posting his first hand info on the sectionals, i would have never tried it, and we wouldn't be discussing it now. i wouldn't have 3 k-60's either;)
now the propress is my own find. not too much competition at the supply house. and the seesnake i owned before ridgid made them. if it's new or exiciting, i'll try it. i'm like mikey, i'll eat it:cool:
rick.
rothenberger makes a 7/8" innercore cable. Cost an arm and a leg, maybe 2.
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